Around 20kms south-east of Jhansi is the small town of Orchha. Settled besides the Betwa river, this town of the Tikamgarh district of Madhya Pradesh was the seat of former princely state of Central India. It was founded by Bundela Rajput chieftain, Rudra Pratap with the aim of making it his capital.

Orchha meaning "hidden place", was surrounded by dense forests and actually sheltered the Bundelas for ages. It still carries on the legacy of these rulers. The monuments, forts & temples built by the Bundela rulers, surely takes one back to the medieval times of rich culture & architectural beauty. Everything, almost the entire of Orchha, that’s worth seeing lies within walk able distance. The Jehangir Mahal, the Ram Raja Mandir, the Chaturbhuj temple, the Laxminarayan Temple & the Chhatris on the bank of Betwa are all worth seeing.

The Jehangir Mahal, built by Raja Bir Singh Ju Deo in the 17th century to commemorate the visit of Emperor Jehangir to Orchha is the most admired palace. The counterbalance of the strong lines & the intricate chhatris and trellis work, embodies the spirit of Bundelis. The east-facing facade when you enter through the ornate royal gateway is coated with turquoise tiles. Two stone elephants on either side of the main gate, one holding bell & other holding flowers in their trunks to welcome the arrival of the Raja still stand tall. Three storeys of elegant hanging balconies, terraces, apartments and onion domes are piled around a central courtyard. The breath-taking view of the entire Orchha from the highest balcony & the chhatri, the historic setting is bound captivate a traveller’s mind. The palace is also witness to a vivid combination of Hindu & Muslim architecture.

Unlike all over India, in Ram Raja temple the statue of Ramchandra, Sita & Laxman are all in black stone, which is something to watch out for as numerous stories pivoting this does rounds. Some say that, the then King wanted to worship Sri Krishna while the Maharani wanted to worship Ramchandra. The conflict finally ended when the chief priest advised both to worship their individual choice of God. So a second temple, the Chaturbhuj to enshrine Ramchandra was being built, while the first being dedicated to Krishna. But the idol of Rama had to be enshrined in the first temple as the Chaturbhuj temple was incomplete till then. Later on the idol of Rama remained in the Ram Raja Temple. Several versions of this story still keep the spirit of Bundelis alive.

Right next to the Raja Ram mandir, is the Chaturbhuj temple which is built upon a huge stone platform and a steep flight of steps take you right inside. Lotus emblems and other symbols of religious significance present the delicate exterior ornamentation, while the interior ceiling is simpler & high. Within, the sanctum is chastely plain with vaulted walls emphasizing its deep sanctity.

Next is the Laxminarayan temple, situated on a higher platform than ground level. The steeply rising path offers a grand view of the temple, an interesting combination of fort & temple styles. The most exquisite of Orchha's wall paintings lies in the interiors; covering the walls and ceiling of three halls, these murals are vibrant compositions on Rani Laxmi Bai, Lord Shiv, Vishnu & variety of other spiritual, secular & historical subjects.

The 14 Chhatris along the Kanchan Ghat of Betwa River stand erect in the memories of Bundelkhand’s former rulers. Besides sight-seeing, walking down the lanes & bylanes of Orchha, during winters is also a good option.

In the heart of Bundelkhand, this fortified cluster of temples and shrines bears the testimony of the medieval legacy in stone, but they surely have been neglected overtime. Most of what is to be seen lie deserted & uncared for.

Find driving directions from Delhi to Orchha here.